The sun is shining!

Yesterday, wet again, I drove out to Lake Eildon and wandered along the shore. There are many camping areas popular all year round.

Today I opened the curtains to sunshine and a peeping Tom! This beautiful King Parrot was hoping for some brekky!

From my windows I can see deer and kangaroos grazing in the evening and the trees are full of birdlife.

I left the Howqua Track for my last day's exploring. This area is extremely popular with campers, 4x4 drivers, bushwalkers, horse riders and people who love to fish. Some of the roads are suitable for ordinary vehicles but many are 4x4 only. All are quite narrow with many blind corners, remote and with no phone reception.

Shortly after leaving the main road I ran into roadworks - a grader was working on a washed out section and it was really chopped up, steep and very slippery. "Just put it in second gear love, stay in the middle and don't touch the brakes!", advised the Stop sign operator. Fortunately this section only lasted around a kilometre!

My goal was Sheepyard Flats and a walk along the Howqua river.  Sheepyard Flats is a popular camping spot and even today there were about a dozen well set up camps dotted around.

The Howqua track parallels the river sometimes high above, sometimes at water level. The whole area is rich in indigenous history, pastoral endeavour and the quest for wealth through gold mining. Simple, succinct signs tell the stories as you wander along.

The Taungurung people moved through and lived in this area for thousands of year attracted by a green stone which was useful for spear heads and axes. Examples of these green stone implements have been found as far away as Gippsland and  were obviously prized as trade goods. Green stone was crafted only by men - women would not touch it for fear of bad spirits!

This connection continues today. I met two young men, Jonah and Noah, Park Vic rangers, who proudly told me they were Taungurung men. It was a lovely meeting: they shared their pride in their country, and talked about the bush and possible threats to it. Loggers would love to get their hands on the tall Mountain Ash forests - we fervently agreed this would be sacrilegious.  Whilst we chatted Eastern Yellow Robins and Willie Wagtails flitted around in the low shrubbery  on the riverbank. Jonah and Noah obviously cared deeply about the landscape and appreciated that others loved it also. 

          The Howqua River from the track.

Gold mining took place between 1860 and 1905 in the area with moderate success. The mining enterprises were welcomed and remnants dot the track. The mines introduced machinery and installed water power in the valley via an enormous water wheel.

This brick chimney looms up suddenly: it fed the smelter helping process the Gold.

But Gold mining was a risky venture and gold here was "flowery ", fine and hard to extract and although several companies excitedly thought they would be succesful, ultimately they left disappointed.

Around an hour after beginning  I came out into Fry's campground a vast space dominated by the house that Fred built. 

Fred Fry, a talented and innovative bush carpenter, lived here from the 1940s until his death in 1971. He was a carrier, driving a dray and bringing goods and materials to the people dwelling in this remote area.

Fred's house was made of drop slabs, log rafters and corrugated iron as were several other huts he built in the area.

The area has a number of huts built over the years often for stockman grazing cattle here in the summer - some for bushwalkers, skiers and horseriders.

How long has this beautiful gum stood here?

Back along the track the music of the river beguiles the ear: the peat brown water is crystal clear despite the recent rain flowing swiftly through the fragrant bush. 

Back in the car I drove on to to Eight Mile Camp the start of a 4 hour return walk to Riley's Hut - it will have to wait for another day!

In my mind's eye l can see a mountain horseman galloping down the track and through the river!

A last visit to Mansfield and the bakery for coffee and a Dutch Apple cake (only find this delicious treat in Victoria) and I returned to pack - my holiday is nearly over.

I have had a great time, met some interesting people, enjoyed varied landscapes and explored areas new to me. I will be back - there is still much to be enjoyed here!